The picture above is of one of the two small leather bound volumes that comprise my great-grandmother’s Grand Tour travel diary. She sailed from New York in July of 1900, three weeks after her 25th birthday. She was accompanied as far as Paris by her sister Pattie, then 31, and after that by her brother George, then 29.
Pattie was a member of the first graduating class of Bryn Mawr college, and would go on to become a suffragist and a state legislator. Anna didn’t go on to college; the tour may have been considered her college education. That might help to explain the comprehensive nature of the journals — they are, in my father’s words, “written in a careful hand and artfully embellished with tickets, hotel emblems, calling cards, and pressed flowers.”
Not long after her return to her hometown of Whitford, Pennsylvania, Anna married Lardner Howell, my great-grandfather, described by my granddad as a “triple-jointed ball of fire,” and “a howling swell from Philadelphia.” Evidently, her grand tour only whetted Anna’s thirst for adventure.
- July, 1900: New York, London, and Paris
- August, 1900: England, Wales, Amsterdam, and Berlin
- September 1900. St. Petersburg, Moscow, Dresden, and Munich
- October 1900. Salzburg, Vienna, Venice, Bellagio, and Pisa
- November, 1900. Florence, Rome, and Naples
- December 1900. Athens, Constantinople, Alexandria, Beirut, Bethlehem, and Jerusalem
- January 1901. Cairo, Luxor, Aswan, and Abydos
- February 1901. Sicily, Naples, Gibraltar, Madrid, and home.
July, 1900: New York, London, and Paris
XXX Luise (name of ship?) sailed 11 a.m.
Fifth day. Thursday, July 19, 1900
Father came on with us last night, we stopped at the 5th Ave. We like the K.L. very much, she is very smooth. Margaret and E. XXX, XXX McShain, and E. Roberts sent me steamer letters, Miss Garber sent us a 5 lb. box candy.
Friday, July 20
A fine day. Smooth, beautiful sunset
Saturday, July 21
Clear pitching, water very blue, steamer in sight.
Sunday, July 22
Clear, long roll, another Carey’s Chickens, we are taking a southerly course on account of icebergs, the sky is most beautiful today. Professor & Mrs. Parsons are very pleasant.
Monday, July 23
Clear, smooth, warm. Large flock of Mother Carey’s Chickens, XXX masted schooner came within a few hundred yards of us. Mrs. Brooks saw a real whale. Heavy shower in evening.
Tuesday, July 24
Cloudy, smooth, whale, 3 vessels
Wednesday, July 25
Cloudy, smooth, seagulls, vessels, concert
Thursday, July 26
Cloudy, smooth, concert for widows and orphans R 260. Italian dance, decks trimmed with signal flags.
Friday, July 27
Smooth, saw Kaiser Wilhelm
Saturday, July 28
Reached Needles; the water very green, covered gulls, waited an hour for pilot, had beautiful and most interesting sail past Isle of White (sic). Uncle Wm. XXX met us on the XXX at Southampton, was very kind. We reached London at seven o’clock. Aunt M. greeted us most kindly. Mr. and Mrs. P. XXX called in evening.
Sunday, July 29
First day was a very sad day. In the morning while Uncle Wm. was reading in the Bible a cable came from Mother, telling of dear Cousin Mary’s death.
Monday, July 30
At breakfast a letter from George in Paris, wanting us to meet him on the 30th so with an hours notice we started. Left Victoria at 11 a.m., arrived in Paris Gar du Nord 7:20 p.m. where G. met us (the Channel was quite rough; neither of us were sick however, passed through great numbers of hop fields and XXX houses in Kent, saw the spires of Canterbury. France looked very green, noticed more XXX than in 189. Walked to exposition in evening. We are thankful to have XXX safe and well.
Tuesday, July 31
Went first to XXX on top of train, came down the Seine on small steamer to Exposition where we spent the rest of the day. The general effect is not as fine as at Chicago or Omahaw, but some of the buildings and the view across the Bridge are fine. Fine exhibit of laces.
August, 1900: England, Wales, Amsterdam, and Berlin
Wednesday, August 1
Went to the Louvre, saw the Victory, A. Schuffer’s, the paintings of Corot-Millet, Guido XXX, Murillo, Raphael, XXX and the Vin. Bought some brown photographs, after lunch went to Cooks and Lyons for money. In afternoon took a drive in the Bois in an Automobile, where we met the Shah of Persia. The Bois is lovely, it is so nice to see the people enjoying themselves on the XXX.
Paris. Clear, warm
Thursday, August 2
In morning went shopping at Bon Marche, went to the louver and Napoleon’s Tomb, where we met a lot of Cook’s Tourists. The Tomb is fine but not quite as impressive as the first time I saw it. Went to the Exposition, saw Indian, Russian, Chinese and Japanese exhibits which are good.
Paris, London. Cloudy
Friday, August 3
Started for London at 9:30 a.m., reached Victoria at 7:15 p.m. Aunt M. was very kind, although we, or rather the Channel, had kept dinner waiting 20 long. It was very rough on the Channel, nearly everyone was seasick. After we were in the train the spray dashed up over the carriage and soaked Pattie.
Saturday, August 4
Went with Aunt M. to order XXX for Momma. In afternoon Uncle M., Aunt M., Pattie and me to Kew Gardens, the old-fashioned flowers were lovely, also fern balls and baskets, but not finer than those at XXX. I want to have a garden with all flowers at home. Called on Miss Mary XXX on way home.
First day. Rainy
Sunday, August 5
Went to Westminster Meeting P.G. and I, we had one very good sermon. Percy XXX spoke to Pattie. Spent the rest of the day quietly and in evening went to Chapel, getting very wet on the way home.
London. Bank Holiday, very rainy
Monday, August 6
Uncle Wm. & g. went to Kew, Richmond, Hampton. We had a nice quiet day making lavender bags, etc. Mary & Elsie Upton here for tea, called on Mrs. P. XXX in afternoon, looked at G’s photographs in evening.
London. Papa’s birthday
Tuesday, August 7
Went in town with Aunt M. to do shopping, bought Anna S a wedding present. In afternoon met Uncle Wm. & George at Hareford house, a very fine collection of china, paintings, carved XXX, and old armor worth £. Letter from mother, lovely XXX roses on dinner table.
Wednesday, August 8
George and I went to the Tower, and Westminster Abbey. Mrs. Lanson and Miss Beeman for tea.
London, Oxford. Rainy (Mitre Hotel, Oxford)
Thursday, August 9
Went to Hight Street in the morning, then packed up, went over to see Mrs. Philip Beeman who gave me a pretty silk case. Aunt M. and Uncle Wm. drove with us to Paddington where we took the train for Oxford.
Friday, August 10
Such a beautiful place. Went first to St. John’s (lovely garden), Worcester next, De XXX; XXX College and Cathedral XXX-XXX windows, the meadows in afternoon, XXX College (also lovely garden), last Magdalen quadrangle, very beautiful, Addison’s walk and flower garden of 30 varieties of flowers.
Saturday, August 11
Saw Warwick Castle in afternoon, and the white peacocks much more beautiful than I had expected, the ivy entrance through rocks, the beautiful rooms (library or living room private view), beautiful outlook over the Avon and fine trees, beautiful roses.
Warwick, Stratford. Clear
Sunday, August 12. First Day
A lovely drive through E. hedgerows and elm trees, we three in a dog cart went to service in Church of the Holy Trinity on banks of the Avon, where is Shakespeare’s grave. Saw S’s old and new home, lunch at Red Horse, rowed on the Avon all afternoon. Saw Ann Hathaway’s cottage, light. Beautiful view of Warwick Castle by moon.
Warwick, Chester. Clear
Monday, August 13
Walked around the old wall, saw Cathedral. “Gods Providence is my Inheritance” house. Very quaint old houses all through the city.
Chester, Whitford in Wales. Clear
Tuesday, August 14
Left the train at Holywell. drove to the town, then to Whitford about six miles. Went to W. Church, saw tablets of Thomases, part of church is old. Mr. Jones the schoolmaster took us to Upper Downing where Richard Thomas is supposed to have been born. Beautiful trees.Whitford XXX = township, hilly country, most interesting. XXX nearer than Holywell.
Chester, Llandudus. Clear
Wednesday, August 15
Fashionable English seaside resort, quantities of people. Pattie and I walked part way over the Big XXX Head and spent afternoon on rocks and pier. Great many steamers and row boats, bathing machines and tents, no sand.
Llandudus, Snowdon (3650 ft.). Clear
Thursday, August 16
The ride in train to Snowdon very beautiful, hills covered with heather (very fine) pretty lakes. George walked up Snowdon 1 3/4 hrs. P. and I went up in cog wheel, view fine from top of mountain, children ran with the train singing Welsh songs. Number of tunnels.
Llandudus, Bettws-y-XXX. Clear
Friday, August 17
Walked eight miles to Swallow Falls, and Fairy Glen, very pretty country, had lunch at the Royal Oak. Drove around Great Orms Head in evening (very fine drive) five miles, splendid road.
Llandudus, London, Southampton.
Saturday, August 18
Left Llandudus at 9:15, reached London 3:30, went to Westminster, met Mrs. P. XXX (Sharpless?). Spent 15 minutes at Aunt Marians, Mr. & Mrs. P. Beeman were there, all very kind, Uncle Wm. went with us to XXX. Ordered roses for Aunt M., carnations for Mrs. P. and Miss Mary B.
Sunday, August 19
Pattie sailed on the Grosser Kurfürst – very crowded, 1300 passengers. The Somers, and Mr. Field she knew. We went to church in the morning. The steamer was to arrive at wharf at 4 o’clock, we stayed until eight. I will miss Pattie very much.
Southampton, London, Harwich
Monday, August 8.20
Left S. at 8:50, arr. London 11:15, did some shopping, George got tickets to Berlin. Had lunch at Cheshire Cheese, letters from Mother, Father, Mrs. XXX (Carney?) and Lane Page, spent 2 hours at National Gallery, Turner and XXX are fine, dinner at Grand, met Mr. Crawford.
Hook of Holland, La Haye
Tuesday, August 21
Had a very good trip, arrived Hook at 5 a.m. After breakfast went to see P.P.’s “Bull” and Rembrandt’s “Presentation in the Temple” and others. About six I admired very much, the light on his pictures is beautiful (golden). Spent afternoon in “Vieux XXX” garden with dogs, cats, pigeons, donkeys, goldfish and roosters. In evening walked around the city. The flowers on streets are lovely, I like La Haye very much.
(The Count’s enclosure)
La Haye or S’Gravenhage (Dutch)
Wednesday, August 22
Late, went to Schwenigen in horsecar through rows of beech trees, after waiting an hour for tickets went in bathing, it was fine. Lots of tents on the beach and chairs, good lunch at K. Came home in electric car. Walked to the Palace in the Woods (XXX Bosch). The trees are fine, the Japanese and Chinese rooms are interesting, XXX where the peace conference was held.
La Haye, Amsterdam.
Thursday, August 23
A. is much finer city than I had thought. Our rooms overlooked the Amstel. The nights on the water were beautiful, walked to the zoo where there is a long row of parrots and a fine aquarium. The XXX museum is fine, Rembrandt’s “Night Watch” etc., costumes of Dutch peasants in XXX (basement?).
Friday, August 24
A long tiresome trip from 8 a.m. until 4:54 p.m. The country is flat, sandy and uninteresting with the exception of the heather, which covers everything. No fences and few houses throughout the country. It is much finer than I had expected, tried at four hotels before we could get rooms. Walked around the lake this evening.
Saturday, August 25
Rained in morning, I stayed in , G. rode about the city, 4 hrs. to Berlin, Mr. & Mrs. Carney met us at station, asked us to XXX (Zoo?) for dinner, drove first in Thurgarten, Brandenburger Thor (Tor?) , fine XXX (Zoo?)
Berlin. First day, clear.
Sunday, August 26
American church 11:30 o’clock, 34 Wilhelm Str. I enjoyed the service very much. G. found the church for me. Dined at the Carney’s, met Mrs. Richards, went to see photographs in the afternoon, had a rarebit at the Carney’s in evening. Louise, their little daughter, is a dear little girl.
Monday, August 27
Saw the Palace of present Emperor Wm. II. (Luther’s chandelier). Very fine rooms, old throne room esp. Saw Wm. I palace, 5 dogs on his desk. Fine glass in dining room. Wrote to Mamma, grandma and Aunt M. Called at the Carney’s in evening, met Dr. & Mrs. Webster. Statue of Frederic the Great/Rauch, Unter den Linden.
Tuesday, August 28
B.-P. 1/2 hour. 9-6:30 Potsdam, Sans Souci. First the town palace (Queen Louie’s room the most interesting). Frederic the Great Sans Souci (beautiful terraced gardens, hothouses, peaches, pears apples in flower pots), (Voltaire’s room – the library), The Orangery, New Palace, fountain, drove to XXX, very fine view, Babelsberg, we walked until 4. Mr. & Mrs. Carney called in evening.
Wednesday, August 29
Old Museum (Dürer’s portraits, Murillo, “St. Anthony of Padua with the Holy Child”, Fra Angelico, “Last Judgment”). The Arsenal (fine guns). Hohenzollern Museum (very interesting Queen Luise portrait, Frederic the Great most interesting). Letter from G. Goff. Mr. & Mrs. C. and Mrs. Richards here for dinner.
Queen Luise Tomb (Wie der Herr es gewohl also ist esgeschihen)
Thursday, August 30
Went with Mrs. Carney & Mrs. R. to Wannsee, pretty ride through the Grünewald (pine forest), crossed the Havel and met Mr. C. & George who rode out on their wheels. Swediszher Hof for lunch, rowing in afternoon, had supper at Mr. Carney’s. Bought Queen Luise in the morning.
Friday, August 31
Saw Old & New Museums, and National Gallery. In afternoon went to Charlottenburg Palace, saw the mausoleum. Queen Luise (1810) & Frederic Wm. III (Rauch) Emperor Wm. I, Empress August (Queen Luise) very beautiful marble, blue light at entrance, gold over tombs, angle of marble guarding entrance. Avenue of cedar trees leading up. Had a rarebit at Mrs. Richards’, very kind and had a pleasant time.
September 1900. St. Petersburg, Moscow, Dresden, and Munich
Berlin, started for Russia 9:15 a.m.
Saturday, September 1
There is to be a grand review of troops today in Berlin, a great many officer in hotel. An uninteresting ride through North Prussia, saw deer. Virballen frontier, customs Russia at 10 o’clock p.m., had no trouble. Passports visaed, very comfortable night in sleeping car. Porters wear aprons.
Arrived St. Petersburg 7 p.m.
Sunday, September 2
Country much more fertile than I had expected, fine trees of pine and beech, had tea on the train, women wear bright colored handkerchiefs on their heads, men queer long coats. Dinner at XXX (Pskof?) Fish soup with sour cream. Fine horses in Petersburg, nearly all black, driven very fast. The coachmen wear queer long coats; folded over and belted in front. First day, 9.2.
XXX (Macedoine?) Glacé; Cherries, plums, peaches, etc., cooked, placed in moulds, covered with jelly, frozen custard or whipped cream served on top. Cooked fruit on top of sponge cake, icing browned on top. Peter’s Cottage first house & palace built on banks of Neva 1703. Saw Peter the Great’s boat.
St. Petersburg. Rainy
Monday, September 3
Kazan Cathedral; dedicated to Our Lady of Kazan, imitation of St. Peter’s, 1811, Icon of the Virgin copy covered with fine gold, studded with precious stones, £15, 000. Huge sapphire, silver balustrade; beautiful XXX (ikonostas?) door with paintings. Monastery of St. Alexander XXX, rode home in XXX, Equestrian Statue of Peter the Great (XXX)
St. Petersburg. Rainy
Tuesday, September 4
Saw Library, engaged Mr. Swartz at XXX (price?) a day for guide, museum of Imp. Carriages, Peter the Great’s sleigh and coach presented to Empress Elizabeth by Frederic the Great. Most interesting, fine harness with jewels. Church of St. Peter & Paul in Fortress, P. the G. laid foundation of a fortress 1703, spire 182 feet high. All sovereigns of Russia since. The foundation of Petersburg lie buried in Cathedral excepting Peter II. Walls covered with military trophies, Artillery Museum; Peter the Great’s Cottage, miraculous image of the Saviour XXX which accompanied P. the G. in his battles. P. lived here while XXX building of Petersburg.
Anna Shoemaker’s wedding day. Alex. III Museum, Russian paintings. XXX (marine), XXX (sculptor). Evening went to Poltava.
Peterhof built by Peter the Great and added to by Catherine II.
9.5. St. Petersburg
Went by steamer to Cronstadt, saw several forts; then by steamer & train to Petershof, had rained in morning but cleared away in afternoon. Fountains with gold statues, Norway pines, and glimpse of Gulf of Finland in distance very beautiful. Palace interior beautiful, blue room esp. XXX tapestries; Montplaisir interesting pewter plates, Empress Elizabeth XXX herself with cooking, toadstool fountain, Hermitage (descending dishes) XXX (fishpond) beautiful view of G. of Finland from Montplaisir, fine sunset on our way home.
St. Petersburg, Winter Palace
(Passports and permit) 600 rooms, grand and very large, white marble throne room, fine gold & silver dishes, salt boxes presented by dif. states to Tsar at coronation, tables of Siberian marbles, bases, mantles, candelabra of malachite lapislazuli. Hermitage, fine doors Alexander I Column in front of Winter P. Greatest monolith of modern times 84 ft. red granite XXX (surmounted?) angel & cross (beautiful against the blue sky); XXX (Tsarskoe Selo?), winter residence of Tsar, beautiful floors, amber room, lapislazuli room
I. Caviare, radishes, cherry vodka, XXX (bread in shape of wood found by Peter), klivna Kvas (made of corn)
II. Cabbage soup with sour cream
III. Pokaski cutlets (chicken) salad, cucumbers
* tea and bread shop, Nevski Prospect
Wrote letters in morning, had lunch at Russian restaurant (*) St. Isaac’s Cathedral, 24 Corinthian pillars, beautiful red granite, golden dome cross & bronze angels, inside 10 pillars malachite, two lapislazuli for ikonostas, in more than 30 ft. high exceed all that has ever been done in that stone, mosaic Ikons between pillars. Beautiful angel and Madonna in doors of ikonostas (530 steps to top we went up).
St. Petersburg. Rainy
Hermitage, very fine museum, splendid vases of lapislazuli, malachite, jasper (violet) grey Siberian jasper, XXX (porphyry?) or rhodonite, tables of mosaic. Murillo’s “Jacob’s Ladder,” “Immaculate Conception,” number of other very fine paintings, beautiful collection of Greek vases, armor covered with jewels. P. the Great’s lathe, the wood he found (copied in loaves of bread) had lunch or rather tea at (*).
St. Petersburg. Clear
9.9 Started for Moscow 10 p.m. Went to service at St. Isaac’s in morning, singing very fine, had lunch at tea room, wrote to Mother in afternoon. Comfortable sleeping car, night very cold, good hot Russian tea, chi from XXX.
[Emblem of “Hotel du Bazar Slave, rue Nicolskaia, Moscou” with her note: “old & cold, best hotel in city”]
Arrived Moscow 10 a.m. Clear
Walked to Kremlin, very beautiful walls and towers (dull red or pink with green tiles). 1492 Ivan III. Temple of the Saviour, white with golden domes some beautiful paintings inside by XXX, Semiradaski, etc. Cathedral of St. Basil the Beatified grotesquely irregular, 11 domes, walls covered with odd paintings. Received letter from mother, telling of Cousin Sue Matthews death.
Moscow. Cold & rainy
Tried to see Palace but found everything closed on account of a XXX day. The churches full of people and services going on. I stayed at the hotel in the afternoon and wrote to E.L.R. Bought some head handkerchiefs, such as the women here wear, at the English store.
Moscow. Very cold, partly clear
Church of the Assumption, the emperors are crowned here, very large emeralds, 5 in “Holy Virgin of Vladimir” £45,000. Cathedral of the Archangel Michael, mausoleum of emperors until Peter the G. Church of the Annunciation (Tsars baptized and married here). Went up Tower of Ivan the Great – 342 steps, most glorious view of city from top, glittering domes and crosses. Drove to Sparrow Hills (Vorobyoby Gory), the ground from which Napoleon obtained his first glance of Moscow.
Kremlin Palace. Hall of St. George, Alexander Hall, XXX Palala or Gold Court, Granovilaya Palala, vaulted apartment with arches resting on 4-cornered column, the Imperial XXX – here displayed at a coronation King of Bells (Tsar Kolokol) at the foot of Ivan’s tower. Had dinner at Hermitage. Saw the sunset from the top of Ivan’s Tower, walked around the Kremlin in the moonlight.
Started for Warsaw in afternoon, Treasury with guide in morning, very fine armour, ivory throne restored for coronation of Alexander II, another from Persia studded with 876 diamonds, 1223 rubies besides turquoises with pearls used by Alex III, Crown of Empress Anne, made by order of Peter the G. diamonds 2536. Ruby 2 1/2 ins. largest in existence. Very grand robes of priests and Bible with (sentence not finished)
Reached Warsaw 9:30 p.m.
Long tiresome ride though G. had very comfortable births (sic) with folding door between. George had a very bad cold and sick head ache, the Smiths called, we went to see them in the morning, they gave us Russian candy, were kind in the evening. I had dinner with them. Fine bridge over Vistula at Warsaw, lights very pretty.
Left for Berlin at 4:30 p.m. (2) Had the passports visaed and went through the German customs without trouble. Drove about the city, saw Polish Jew quarter, park and House of (not finished). Wrote Mamma in the afternoon, had a very comfortable night in the sleeping car.
Capital of Saxony
Berlin – Dresden.
Reached Berlin at 9 a.m., breakfast at Victoria Cafe, spent the a.m. with Mrs. Carney and had lunch. Their new house is very attractive, left Berlin at 1 p.m. The vineyards on either bank of the Elbe just a I expected. We see a great many American on the streets.
Dresden on the Elbe.
The Picture Gallery (Zwinger) the Sistine Madonna (Madonna di San Sisto) Raphael is the most beautiful picture I have ever seen, much finer than I expected. “The Chile Jesus in the Temple” Heinrich Hoffmann 1824 also very beautiful. The gardens of the Zwinger are very pretty, roses and little hedges of ivy. Had lunch at Belvedere, a beautiful view of the Elbe. Dr. & Mrs. Schmidt called in the evening.
Saw also the plate china and linen of the king. Went to XXX Vault where we saw very fine collection of carved ivory, carved ostrich eggs mounted with gold and silver, jewels of the Saxon Crown etc. Lunch a the B. on the Brühl Terrace (no music or opera on account of the death of one of the princes; great demonstration and tolling of bells (Park).
Museum Johanneum, splendid collection of porcelain especially Chinese though some fine Meissen china (Meissen in England called Dresden). Historical Museum, fine armour. Lunch at Redlichhaus (bad). Spent the afternoon at Zwinger, and doing some shopping over XXX to 1.12. Bought braid, sewing silk, and buttons at the above. Stayed at the hotel for dinner fortunately. Saw lovely roses in park yesterday.
Dresden, Meissen. Clear
Started at eight o’clock taking small steamer on the Elbe, Dresden Spires and bridges very pretty through the mists interesting to see women with their baskets of fruit etc. going on and off the steamer, reached Meissen about noon, went over the Royal Porcelain Manufactory (founded in 1710 a year after Böttger had discovered the art of making china). Very interesting, a great deal of the onion pattern. Reached Dresden at 3. Vineyards.
Dresden, Königstein (Saxon Switzerland)
Starting by steamer at eight on a beautiful day reached Königstein at 12:25, scenery very pretty. The XXX (Bastic?) 1030 ft., the finest point in Saxon Switzerland. Very interesting day on the Elbe, hills covered with fine trees in most places. Some rocks. Dinner at Belvedere, very good music. Letters from Mother, Mary B. and Anna Richie.
Dresden. first day clear
Went to American Church (St. Johns). Reichs-Platz 5, very nice service, and pretty little church building covered with ivy. Spent an hour and a half at the Zwinger looking at Hofmann’s “Christ in the Temple,” and the Sistine Madonna. Wrote to Mother, and Margaret S. in the afternoon, looking out over the Elbe.
Left Dresden at 9 a.m. Long tiresome ride, though Saxony is very fertile, women gathering potatoes, flocks of geese, queer little purple crosses in fields, reached Nuremberg at 7 p.m. after supper walked through the town. Most quaint and picturesque, had sausages, sourcrout (sic), and Münchenes beer, at Bratwurst- Glöcklein, very quaint. Frequented by Albrecht Dürer and Hans Sachs. “There is probably no town in Germany still so medieval in appearance.”
Nuremberg (Nürnberg), belongs to Bavaria
Saw Albrecht Dürer’s house, Hans Sachs’ house and statue, open market, walls, old castle, XXX (dupwell?), tower with instruments of torture, St. Lawrence Church (stained glass windows, fine stone XXX), very quaint old houses, nearly all built about 1500. Started for Munich at 4:36, reached destination at 8:45 p.m.
Munich (München), capital of Bavaria, on banks of Isar
Moved from “Bayerisches Hof” to Pension Fontana, Maximilian Str. 5 very comfortable, pleasant rooms. Rainy, wrote to Pattie and Mrs. Carney.
Munich. clear and warm
Went to Old and New Pinakothek; Dürer’s “Four Apostles,” “Portrait of Himself,” Murillo’s “Beggar Boys”. Basilica, stayed at the Pension in afternoon, letter from Aunt Marian. Went to hear Lohengrin in evening and enjoyed it immensely.
Tried to see the Palace, but found it closed, went to the XXX, Sleeping Satyr best, walked in afternoon to the Maximilianeum along the river Isar a little way then through the English Garden and home, the Maximilianstrasse very fine street, saw some fine carriages in the morning while I was waiting for George to send a telegram to Mr. XXX.
Mr. Carney arrived about 11 a.m. I was in a great rush for some reason, had lunch at a cafe and left on 1:36 train for Oberammergau, which we reached at 4. Beautiful country mountains and pretty lakes, peasants in fancy dress on the roads. O.A. filled with Americans & English, Cook & XXX met Cousins C. & S. & Miss Potts. Had very comfortable rooms in one of the peasant cottages, clean and neat.
Church bells began ringing about 4:30 a.m., light over mountains beautiful. Peasants hurrying in, cows going out, had breakfast out of doors. Play commenced at 8 a.m. Our seats middle of front row, very glad went. “The Leave Taking at Bethany,” and “The War of the Cross,” the most pathetic and realistic scenes, tableaux very beautiful and wonderful. 200 children in play, 685 persons engaged, 125 have speaking parts. Anton Lang (25), potter, chief part; Anna XXX (Thinger?) (18), Maria, an hour and a half at noon, closes at 5:30. The men and women who perform the play seem deeply in earnest, and I can not believe they are acting. It is certainly a religious performance (audience of 4000 persons).
October 1900. Salzburg, Vienna, Venice, Bellagio, and Pisa
George and Mr. Carney started on their wheel trip, had breakfast at seven, after they left for (not complete). I wrote to Mamma about the Passion Play. After dinner walked over to the Hofgarten and English Garden where I sat and read a while, a nice long letter from Mamma.
Wedding of one of the Bavarian princesses, streets very gay with blue and white flags, and decorations of evergreen. She marries Prince Albert of XXX (Belgium?). Bought a silk skirt, walked over to the palace but did not see anything as I did not want to get in the crowd. Two cards from George from Ulm. Wrote to Grandma and Aunt Bella.
Walked for two hours and was caught in a small shower, passed several large breweries. Löwenbrau,had some chocolate at the little shop, wrote to Papa and George in afternoon, G. returned Baedeker, interesting English lady at Pension. G’s clothes arrived yesterday.
Lovely day, wrote to Aunt M. in morning, people at Pension quite pleasant. Went to Old Pinakothek in afternoon to find I had only 10 minutes before the place closed, had some apricoter(?) ice at the little shop and came in to mend G’s overcoat & my cape. German officer for neighbor at supper. Two nice old English ladies the other side.
Spent morning at Old Pinakothek, went shopping in afternoon.
Wrote Mrs. P. Beeman. Letter from George, went out in the afternoon, put new binding in skirt.
Munich. First day
Went to English Church, very simple service and minister had a good face. Text for sermon Epheseus II.15 (maybe VI.15?) “And your feet shod with the preparation of the gospel of peace;” met very nice English girl on the way to Church. Wrote to Mother. A lovely clear day. George came in about 9 p.m.
Left Munich about noon and reached S. at three, very pretty place, just over the border in Austria, nearly surrounded by mountains. The hotel something like the Profile House, beautiful view of one of the mountains from our rooms or rather from XXX (balcony?). Walked over to Mozart’s birth house and museum, then went up to the Hohen-Salzburg. Had a fine view of the mountains, XXX (green fields?), village, and Salze River from the top, the trees very pretty on the castle rock, moonlight fine.
Salzburg, Vienna (or Wien)
Walked over to the village. The trees on the mountain opposite are turning reddish-brown or yellow, very beautiful. Saw Mozart’s statue, the Cathedral, and went up in an open elevator 200 ft. to Mönchsberg, beautiful walks through the woods. Left for Wien at 2:27, arrived 9:15 p.m. Austria very green and fertile, latter part of the journey followed the Danube by XXX (moon?)
Ring-Strasse fine, 62 yds. in breadth, XXX (pavement?) 3 rows of trees, 2 footpaths between, driveway with three car tracks, 3 rows of trees straddle path between driveway and sidewalk.Linden and maple trees. Church of St. Stephen fine gothic edifice, west end Romanesque, XXX(Graten?) with its attractive shops & Kärntner Str., Reichsrattes – Gebäude in the Greek style, where Dr. XXX spoke for 17 hrs. Drove in Prater in afternoon, Haupt-Allee, 3 miles of fine trees. Emperor Francis Joseph.
Imperial Art History Museum, the hall and stair way almost the finest I have ever seen, marble gray and pink. 137 Portrait of a young girl “Violante,” Palma Vecchio, Virgin with the Cherries, Tihan, 29 Madonna al Verde a Raphael. Heard Siegfried at Imperial Opera House, fine, the singing beautiful and fine Opera House.
XXX Church and Imperial Vault where the sarcophagus of Maria Theresa & Empress Elizabeth d. 1898 as many others are. Natural History museum, second British – jewel XXX, £6000. Opal, perfectly pure, £200,000. Schonbrunn Palace built by Maria Theresa, room of rosewood, and Indian paintings on copper plate, room of Goeblin Tapestry 12 months. Nursery, gardens in French style of XXX Linden trees trimmed square, walked up the hill to the Gloriette, “Schöne Brunnen” (beautiful fountain).
Hofburg – Treasury, crown of pearls and diamonds made for Empress Elizabeth very beautiful also diamonds, emeralds, and rubies which had belonged to Maria Theresa. Florentine diamond £57,449, 4th largest. Largest meteorites ever seen falling.
Vienna. Partly clear first day
Went to English chapel over British Embassy. Had lunch at Bristol, then by 2 streetcars and 2 trains went to Kahlenberg. From there walked to Leopoldsberg, where there would have been a fine view of Vienna had the day been clear. Nice walk though the woods, pine and oak, read the friend. In church at Leopoldsberg allied army generals offered prayers for success against Turks, ride up the Wienerwald through vineyards.
Vienna. Rather cold.
Shopping and went again to St. Stephens, walked through the city and nearly around the Ring Strasse.
Early start by XXX Railway, remarkable for its engineering and scenery. 15 tunnels, 16 viaducts — Carpathian mountains, then Alps, most beautiful mountains I have ever seen. the higher ones are snow-covered, valleys green, corn drying on sides of houses (customs at Pouliva). Reached Venice 11 p.m. so odd to step into a gondola. Beautiful starlit night, Grand Canal looked so romantic, reached the hotel by way of the Bridge of Sighs — Ponte du XXX.
Piazza, Piazetta, Leone di S. Marco. Two granite pillars, St. Theodore standing on a crocodile, Campanile, St. Mark’s a vision out of the earth — a multitude of pillars and white domes clustered into a long low pyramid of coloured light; a treasure-heap; it seems partly of gold and partly of opal and mother-of-pearl “Ruskin” mosaics interior, the pigeons in the piazza. On the Grand Canal in a gondola, Browning’s house, Byron’s, P. XXX (Wagner XXX here).
Venice. Partly clear
Ducal Palace or Doge’s palace. Porta della Carta, Scala dei Giganti Tintoretto “Paradise,” largest picture in the world, fills the end of one room, Palace rebuilt in 1574 “The First hammer stroke upon the old palace of Ziani was the first act of the period properly called the Renaissance. It was the knell of the architecture of Venice, and of Venice herself.” Ruskin. Petrarch’s library founded by Grimani Breviary. S. Maria Formsa, “St. Barbara” Palma Vecchio.
The Accademia Titian (Tiziano Vecetlio) 1477-1576 “The Assumption” lovely, color fine, the most important picture of the master, brought from Church of XXX (Frari?) VittoreCarpaccio 1510 “Presentation of Christ in the Temple” pretty little angel, Carpaccio S. Ursula, very pretty especially “The Dream.” Went in gondola to Church of S. Giorgio Maggiore on an island. Tintoret, “The Last Supper,” then to St. Maria della Salute, beautiful on the outside, interior Tintoret “Marriage at XXX” then on down the Canal, returned in time to see sunset from the Campanile, another ride in gondola by starlight, fed pigeons.
Senola di S. Rocco — gallery of the works of Jacopo Tintoretto (XXX) 1512; most celebrated work “The Crucifixion” in fine room; the Frari “XXX” of Pesari family (Sa Pala dei Pesari) Titian quite beautiful, Giovanni Bellini 1488 “Madonna and Saints,” dear little angel; after buying photographs went out in a gondola to see sunset, met Mr. & Mrs. XXX (Perot?) in evening. 4 letters from home.
First day rainy, read and wrote letters, went out for supper and talked to Mrs. Perot in evening. Read.
Went to Accademia to see again the “Assumption,” very graceful. Bought some more photos and tried to find lace, spent afternoon at S. Marco, and feeding pigeons. Read Merchant of Venice in evening.
Venice, Milan, Capital of Lombardy
St. Marks in morning, left for Milan at noon rather 2 o’clock, I am very sorry to leave beautiful romantic Venice. Country through which we passed filled with mulberry trees and vineyards. went through Padua and Verona, interesting Italian lady and gentleman in carriage who smoked cigarettes. Nice hardwood floors at Continental.
Milan. Beautiful day
Milan Cathedral, its white pinnacles looked very beautiful against the blue sky from tope of spire we had fine view of the show-covered Alps: Monte Rosa, the Matterhorn, Mt. Blanc. The roof of the Cathedral is finished off with great slabs of white marble etc. I saw Leonardo Da Vinci’s “The Last Supper” in the refectory of S. Maria Delle Grazie. Impressive. Also saw the Arco della Pace termination to the Simplon road begun by Napoleon I, row of chestnuts.
Saw the Brera, the ‘Sposalizio or Marriage of the Virgin by Raphael. The sketch for the head of Christ in Leonardo da Vinci’s painting or fresco of The Last Supper. Shopped in the afternoon in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele.
Milan, Bellagio. cloudy
Made rather early start for Bellagio, the ride from XXX (Como?) interesting, great many red leaves on the trees and stone walls along the shore American Ivy. Reached B. about two p.m. Walked five miles in afternoon, saw many olive trees which looked like willows, figs, bamboos, and very large chestnuts. Dinner at long table with a great deal of XXX(bowing?) all Germans. Next morning lovely bouquet of roses and jessamine sent to my room.
Bellagio. Partly clear.
Bought some olive wood in morning. George rowed us across Lake Como in afternoon to Cadenabbia, where we saw the Villa XXX (Carlotta?), Canova’s Cupid & Syche (sic), beautiful grounds, orange and lemon trees full of fruit, fern grottoes, banana, palm, and bamboo trees, brilliant ivy over dark pine trees, XXX (fine?) row the rest of the afternoon.
Bellagio. First day beautifully clear.
Went to the English Chapel, a nice little building beautifully situated. Two German ladies, George & I comprised the congregation. G. walked to the top of a mountain, and spent the rest of the afternoon rowing. I wrote, read and took a nap. The lake was very beautiful all day in the sunshine.
Still clear, a pretty ride through the lakes, found a letter from Mother at Milan. Left for Genoa about two, arrived 6:45, crowded train, saw statue of Columbus, nice hardwood floors in our rooms.
Walked about Genoa after going to the XXX steamship office. From park had a good view of the city–Columbus statue near the station, trees quite tropical. Left Genoa 12:45, arr. Pisa 5 p.m. Eighty tunnels, pretty glimpses of the Sea, rocky coast, Appenines [mountains], passed the Carrara quarries. Pisa a most dead old place, had a glimpse of the tower and fine sunset over the Arno.
The Leaning Tower or Campanile is much more beautiful and large than I expected. Built of white marble, leans 13ft. Fine view from top’s tower. Cathedral, the Baptistery, and Campo Santo, “a group of buildings without parallel.” Bronze lamp, Galileo; pulpit and XXX in Baptistery, carved and inlaid marble. 2hrs to Florence.
November, 1900. Florence, Rome, and Naples
Spent morning writing and reading, took walk in afternoon, George engaged state rooms, etc. for Eastern trip. Cosmo. “Father of his Country” 1383 — Lorenzo de’ Medici (The Magnificent), grandson of Cosmo died 1492. Savonarola Dominican monk was made law give of Florence for 3 yrs. 1498 put to death in Palazzo Vecchio.
Piazza della Signoria, full of men, Loggia dei Lanzi. I do not understand why Mrs. B. loved to come here. Uffizi Gallery founded by the Medici, “Venus de’ Medici,” “Wolf Dogs,” Venus is in the Tribune. “Madonna,” Andrea del Sarto. “Coronation of Virgin” Fra Angelico; “The Flora,” XXX; Fra Angelico “The 12 Angels,” “Magdalen,” Carlo Dolci, “Niobe and her Children.” In afternoon walked with G. and lost each other, thunder storm.
Palazzo Pitti great XXX looking place made of huge stones. “Julius II,” “La Madonna della Seggiola,” “La Madonna del Gran-Duca,” “Raffaelle,” “Holy Family,” “Dispute about the Trinity,” Andre del Larto. In afternoon went to San Lorenzo to see the tombs of the Medici, that of Lorenzo with “Dawn & Twilight” below are very wonderful. Michaelangelo was certainly a great artist. Saw places where the houses of Dante and Beatrice stood. Potatoes in the shape of mushrooms, round fried mush with cheese between. XXX steak pie, leaves of crust on top, steak in flat XXX potato & bacon. Chestnuts put through potato masher then in shape and whipped cream on top. Ponte Vecchio near Ufizzi The Cathedral or Duomo most interesting building the outside covered with beautiful marble. The Campanile of Grotto “Power & Beauty combined” Ruskin. Loggia de’Lanzi to the right of Palazzo Vecchio contains Mrs. B.’s “Perseus” masterpiece of Benvenuto Cellini (??), “The Rape of the Sabines,” Giovanni da Bologna.
Florence. First day.
American church, 11 Piazza del Carmine. Started for a walk in the Boboli Gardens, pretty ferns, large palms and olive trees, the rain came on, so we went into the Pitti and had another look at the Madonna della Seggiola, after the rain was over we went to the top of the Gardens and had a view of the city. I cam on home, G. went for a walk. Fine sunset.
S. Croce, tomb of Michaelangelo, the monument to Dante, tomb of Machiavelli, tomb of Galileo, fine frescoes by Giotto, blue and white medallion babies on front of Foundling Hospital. Convent of S. Marco, two very interesting cells which belonged to Savonarola when Prior, very beautiful frescoes on each cell of the convent, by Fra Angelico; Accademia — “David” by Michaelangelo in the Tribune. “The Last Judgment,” Fra Angelico, “The Three Archangels & Tobias, ” Botticelli. Drove in afternoon to XXX (Fiesole?) where we had a fine view of Florence over olive trees and vineyards, hedges of pink roses full of bloom, then to The XXX, leaves still green, woman selling roses.
Bargello now Museo Nazionale, courtyard intensely picturesque, Hall of Donatello, Statue of St. George. D. Statue of David, picture of Dante with his master Brunetto in fresco by Giotto 1301. “Statue of Mercury,” Giovanni da Bologna; “Singing Children,” Luca della Robbia in Opera del Duomo. Went inside the Palazzo Vecchio; “Gates of Paradise,” bronze gates on east side of Baptistery by Lorenzo XXX — very beautiful. XXX at them and the Cathedral while XXX the Campanile of Giotto.
Florence, Rome (Roma)
Made an early start, 5 o’clock, and reached Rome at one, the Campagna very beautiful, purple and yellow and many flocks of sheep, clouds beautiful, sun very hot and shade cool. After we were settled at the Eden we walked to Piazza del Popolo, then to Castle S. Angelo, and St. Peter’s Colonnades fine, also interior, & went by train to (immense) Forum Romanum; Arch of Septimus Severus in foreground the ruins 20 ft. below street level – a great XXX of big and little stones, a few columns and arches. Returned by Capitoline Hill, Statue of Marcus Aurelius on horseback. Column of Trajan, Column of Marcus Aurelius.
Went to St. Peter’s to see the Pope, after waiting an hour the old man was carried in on a chair, he looked very old, white hair, white silk cap & gown, with red XXX (short?) robe embroidered with gold. [He] turned from side to side holding out two fingers. Saw Pantheon, most perfect pagan building in the city, built B.C. 27 by Marcus Agrippa, splendid dome, XXX (seven?) seasons, lighted by an aperture in center of dome very fine; The Palatine Palace of the Caesars wonderful old ruins, mostly of brick, the marble facing having fallen off; frescoes and pavement in XXX of Livia. In evening saw Coliseum by moonlight, very impressive
Rome. Lovely day
Vatican, Sixtine Chapel (sic) (Cappella Sistina) The ceiling most beautiful (“the most perfect work done by Michaelangelo” Kugler) “Separation of Light & Darkness,” Creation of the Sun and Moon, “Sibylla Erythraea,” “XXX,” “Jeremiah,” “Sib. Cumaea”, “Sib Delphica” — I like best, In Stanza della Signatura “The XXX Raffaelle & Parnassus” also by R. 52 frescoes by R. and his pupils from Old & New Testament in Loggia, Pinacoteca “The Transfiguration” Raffaelle. In p.m., walked to Santa Maria Maggiore, fine chapels, S. John XXX.
Rome. Lovely day
Vatican “Bust of Jupiter,” statues of the Muses, two greyhounds playing “Laocoon”, “Apollo Belvedere,” very beautiful, “Mercury.” Drove in p.m. to Catacombs of S. Calixtus, came out by the Via Appia passing Baths of Caracalla, drove on out the famous road through the Campagna passed Church of Domine Quo Vadis, Tomb of the wife of XXX, Lots of little flowers in bloom over the Campagne.
Rome. First day
Went to American church in morning, very nice little building Via Nazionale, rainy, Stay in during afternoon, read and wrote.
Piazza del Campidoglio, Capitoline Hill, Statue of Marcus Aurelius, Museo Capitoline, Pliny’s Doves, disappointing, 83 busts of Roman Emps., the “Dying Gladiator,” The XXX Praxiletes very pretty, went afterwards to the XXX (Taspeian?) Rock. I spent afternoon looking up Turkish Consul to have passports visaed.
Rome. Rained in a.m.
Church Ara. Coeli (?) attributed to an alter erected by Augustus to Commemorate the Delphic oracle respecting the coming of our Savior. S. Maria della Pace — “Four Sibyls of Raffaelle,” Il Gesu, large ball of lapis lazuli in one altar. S. Lorenzo in Lacina, “The Crucifixion” Guido Reni. In p.m. went to Palazzi Barkrini in picture gallery there. Saw portrait of Beatrice Cenci, beautiful lawn, Museo delle Lerme made from the Baths of XXX and an old Carthusian convent sculpture, frescoes, etc. discovered during recent excavations. S. Pietro in XXX Moses of Michaelangelo for tomb of Julius II. Most beautiful sunset from Coliseum.
Note on last page of journal number 1:
“English Lake District as interpreted in the Poems of Wordsworth” Prof. Knighter
[End of journal number 1; beginning of journal number 2.]
Lovely morning, Palazzo Rospigliosi, Guido’s Aurora, the Colonna Gardens, the Forum Romanuum, 3 beautiful columns near Capitol belong to Temple of Vespasian, 8 Ionic columns, Temple of Saturn. Drove in p.m to XXX (Farnesina?) Palace “most beautiful existing frescoes of Raffaella and his school.” “Psyche, ” “Galatia floating in a shell,” walked to XXX (Janiculan?) where we had fine view of Rome, drove to Baths of Caracalla, 1600 bathers at once. Beautiful XXX(tessellated?) floors, walked to see the Temple of Janus and Cloaca Maxima
Ride of an hour through Campagna. Passed sulphor springs, Tivoli beautifully situated among olive groves high upon the side of a mountain. River XXX(Auxio?) falls from a great height 330 ft., Temple of the Sibyl, Hadrian’s Villa very interesting, huge ruins near Tivoli, a rainy afternoon.
Castle of S. Angelo built by Hadrian for a mausoleum, the outside more interesting than the interior, cells of Beatrice Cinci(?) to Benvenuto Cellini (?). Fine view from top. S. Maria dells Concezione, the “Archangel Michael” by Guido beautiful face, Gardens of the Pincio, sunset back of S. Peter’s, lovely flowers to sell on the streets, roses and chrysanthemums.
Rome. Cloudy & rainy.
Went up the dome of S. Peter’s. Like a small village on top, workmen’s houses and gardens on top. Dome fine, XXX(Canova’s?) tomb of Clement XIII said to be his greatest work. Mosaics from S. Michael of Guido etc. The Apollo Belvedere is I think the most beautiful statue in Rome. Stayed in and wrote during p.m. Licusta bushes on other side of street. George brought in some lovely pink carnations and XXX.
Another rainy First day; had three nice letters from home. Went to church in morning, wrote in p.m.
Vatican, saw the 6 angels by Melozzo da Forti in Sacristy of St. Peter’s, went again to Sistine Chapel & picture gallery. Went shopping in afternoon. Arch of Titus interesting with its bas-reliefs of the seven-branched candlestick.
Lovely clear morning so we went to the Forum Romanuum, saw first XXX(Rostra?) of Julius Caesar in front of Arch of Septimius Severus Basilica of XXX (Julia? Lucia?), saw recent excs. in Temple of Castor & Pollux. Temple of Vesta interesting statues of virgins, Basilica of Constantine
Rome, Naples (Napoli)
Rained all morning so I did not go out. Left at noon for Naples.
11.22 Museo Nazionale, beautiful frescoes from Pompeii and Herculaneum, mosaics, Farnese Bull, Farnese Hercules. Homer, Psyche of Capua, fine bronzes, collection of beautiful coins, vases, fine collection of household utensils found mostly at Pompeii, tea strainers, bread, egg, prunes, etc.
had expected to go up Vesuvius but as it looked cloudy decided to go to Pompeii. Most interesting and wonderful sight — 24th August 79 AD, the great eruption, streets paved with large blocks of lava, stepping stones and wheel ruts, public fountains, staircases, XXX, shops with marble counters and sliding doors, large earthen vessels, baker’s shops with grinders, absence of glass, ostium, strium, XXX reservoir for rain, tablinum (?), beautiful frescoes. House of the XXX “XXX” greeting
[Caption to picture pasted in book: “House of the Prague Poet — dwelling of Glaucus, dog in front. Dilla of Diomedes.]
Went with the XXX(family name?) to Vesuvius Mount. Drove from 9 until 1:30, three horses in each carriage, many beggars, singers, etc. wonderful lava fields, bought pomegranate and cactus to eat. Had lunch at XXX station, then went up the wire-rope railway, very steep and cold among the clouds. Could see nothing, heard stones falling. Reached the hotel at 6:15, saw Mr. Usher & Mr. Brinton on top
First day went to Church (Christ Church) English, Strada San Pasquale, drove in afternoon to Pozznoli Amphitheater, Solfatara crater of a half-extinct Volcano. The ground is hollow and sulphureors (sic) gases ascend. Lots of goats, people find donkeys, etc. Pretty glimpses of the sea, beautiful view when we returned the moon, evening gold on the bay, and Vesuvius.
Went in small steamer to Sorrento and Capri, very rough and stormy, were not able to see the blue Grotto, enhance scarcely 3 ft. high. Island of XXX near Pozznoli. Very cheap coral
Naples. Very clear
Saw the Cathedral, XXX under altar, then to the Museum, the collection is most interesting cooking utensils of all kinds, silver spoon, hastramiss, lamps, vases, dishes, gold and silver jewelry, had lunch in the Arcade with then walked to Church of St. XXX where we had most beautiful view of Naples, passed Castle of St. Elmo. Very long steps up the side of the hill.
Naples, Brindisi. Clear
Left Naples, Vesuvius, and my large trunk. I am glad we shall be here again. It is very beautiful. Train left at 12. Met Mr. & Mrs. Coles from Spokane, very agreeable, took our lunch with us, country not especially interesting, reached B. at 9:45 p.m. Went on board the XXX and found very comfortable staterooms, alone.
XXX (Name of ship?). Cloudy
Thanksgiving Day. Landed at Corfu, and interesting ride through the Greek town, lots of fruit on the streets, and sheepskin coats on men, Mr. Scott went off the boat with us. Had chevreaux for Thanksgiving dinner, talked to Miss Bowen, George had a bad headache and went to bed early. Smooth, the hills of Greece look very bare and dry almost no trees. Ionian Sea. Honey from Mr. Hymettos. Delicious honey for breakfast, with butter like whipped cream, the finest grapes I have ever seen but larger and with more taste, like hot house, apple, pears, mandarins served at dinner and brunch. “Oh, thou, our Athens, violet-wreathed, brilliant, most-enviable city!” — Aristophanes
Most of the people left the steamer at XXX to go over land to Athens (I should do so again), read some Grecian history in morning. In p.m. became rough and I felt seasick all afternoon and evening, the waves were a beautiful color with white-caps. I was told it always is rough going around XXX and Malta.
December 1900. Athens, Constantinople, Alexandria, Beirut, Bethlehem, and Jerusalem
Saw land as soon as it was light reach Piraeus about 10:30. Went off in small boat XXX with Oriental rug on floor. Piraeus very dirty, a great deal of fruit, did not open any of the trunks at custom house, drove of 3/4 hr. to Athens, land very barren a few olive trees, no grass, very poor houses. From my room at the hotel I look out on King’s Palace, an orange grove in foreground & Mt. Hymettos beyond, rained all afternoon so I stayed in. Museum of the Acropolis, a few fragments of the Parthenon that Lord Elgin left in Athens. A beautiful view of the sunset from the Temple of Nike over Bay of Phaleronland island of XXX(Salamis?)
“Slow sinks, more lovely ere his race be seen,
Along Morea’a hills the setting sun;
Not as in northern climes, obscurely bright
O’er the hushit deep the yellow beam he throws,
Gilds the green wave that trembles as it glows,
On old Ęgina’s rock and Idra’s(Hydra’s?) isle,
The god of gladness sheds his parting smile;
O’er his own regions lingering, loves to shine,
Though there his altars are no more divine.
Descending fast the mountain shadows kiss
Thy glorious gulf, unconquer’d Salamis!
Their azure arches through the long expanse
More deeply purpled meet his mellowing glance,
And tenderest tints, along their summits driven,
Mark his gay course, and own the lives of heaven;
Till, darkly shaded from the land and deep,
Behind his Delphian cliff he sinks to sleep.”
–“The Corsair”, third canto, Byron.
Returned by Arcopagus, and read Acts XVII in the evening.
Athens. First day clear.
English Church passed Queen XXX Gardens, the only large green space in Athens. In afternoon went to the Olympicion, very fine Corinthian columns of XXX marble, glimpses of the sea beyond Stadion (scene of Panathenaean games). The Acropolis, the Propylaea (stairway), the Parthenon with its splendid Doric columns, a small part of the friezes remaining. A shower coming so we stood under the portico of the Temple of Athena (beautiful)
Walked up Mt. XXX, lovely view of Athens, the Acropolis and the sea beyond, then National Archaeological Museum,beautiful gold cups, etc. The Athena, Hermes, Themes, Poseidon from Melos. Beautiful sepulchral (sic) reliefs and vases (with open box). In p.m. walked to XXX then to the Acropolis, frieze of Parthenon, by Phidas, of XXX marble. Pericles furnished XXX about 432 BC. Erichtheron or Shrine of Athena, I think very beautiful and a fine view.
Spent morning at the Acropolis going by way of Monument of Lysikrates, oldest extant building of the Corinthian order. Pediments of Parthenon represent the birth of Athena. E. front, strife of Athena & Poseidon for the possession of Athens; W. front, Metopes not so important. The Frieze the masterpiece of Attic bas relief, a procession the glory & power of Athens in the service of the goddess Phidias.
Prince George, XXX, Delphi
Started from XXX on donkeys (mine a nice little white one), “Saras,” beautiful and interesting ride through large olive groves, and vineyards saw XXX covered with snow. I saw dolphins before we landed, two hours ride the latter part very stoney. Had lunch at new Delphi or Kastri, then walked through the ruins. Temple of Apollo, theatre, stadium, treasure houses, excavations by French government, XXX Fountain plane trees planted by XXX XXX Apollo, lovely ride home by moonlight. One of the most interesting days of the trip.
XXX, Gulf of Corinth, Athens
Had a beautiful view of Mt. Parnassus covered with snow and a lovely clear day on the water, saw Corinth. Interesting going through isthmus of Corinth very high walls and very narrow. beautiful sunset, mountains, purple, saw Salamis and Aegina islands.
National Museum, beautiful dancing maidens in terra cotta, vases, etc. gold vase with doves. Several nice letters from home, went to bank then bought photographs, stayed in during p.m. washed my hair and wrote. George went to the Queen’s gardens. Saw the Acropolis by moonlight. The flying clouds made fine effect. It is a grand place. I have enjoyed Greece very much.
Athens, “Steamer Hungarie,” Aegean Sea
Had expected to go to the Acropolis but it is cloudy, went to the leather bazaar, and bought Greek vase, drove to Pireas starting at 1:30. The country does not look quite as dry as a week ago. Went out with three Americans in small boat, comfortable state room alone, bought some sponges, lovely moonlight, evening on deck.
“Steamer Hungarie,” Dardanelles, Sea of Marmosa, Aegean Sea
First day got up late, had a nice time reading on deck before breakfast at eleven, reached Dardanelles about eleven, a great many fortifications along the tanks. Never saw so many flags before, at D. Turks came out with china etc. to sell, saw some minarets, very strong wind and rain in p.m. so had to stay below. I must write to Mamma now. The afternoon seems very long. It is cold.
Got up easy at 6 to see the approach but it was stormy. Arrived about 10:30 a.m.. a little silver at the custom house, after lunch and Cooks where we got some money and several letters, Seraglio Grounds & Museum of Antiquities, beautiful sarcophagi of Alexander found in XXX (Sodon?) cylinder of XXX XXX XXX, and museum of costumes, S. Sophia, (Mosque of Sultan Ahmed I) while on outside four very large pillars inside blue tile nice and light, six minarets (XXX Mosque Suleiman the Magnificent) stained glass windows from Persia, the finest next to S. Sophia. Tomb of Sultan Mamnud II.
Still rainy and very cold, drove to Cistern Basilica built by Constantine. S. Sophia again, very beautiful. Byzantine church a great deal of carved work, carpets turned toward Mecca, put on old leather shoes, columns from many heathen temples built by XXX the priests do not look agreeable. Drove past Column of Constantine. Went to bazaars, and Faraway Moses shop, afternoon drove near Sultan’s Palace on the heights of Pera, a most beautiful view of Galata at our feet, the Golden Horn and Stambul beyond. The Sea of Marmosa, XXX(the Asiatic Quarter), and the Bosporus to our left. Saw outside of some of the harems. XXX(Selamlik?) every Friday Sultan goes to mosque, XXX receptions of S. Ramazan Turkish Tent As you approach Constantinople the Seven Towers first come into view on the left, the long walls the Mosque of Sultan Ahmed I with its six minarets white, then S. Sophia yellow with four, then the Seraglio. You anchor in the Golden Horn and go off on a small boat to Galata then drive to Pera. “Early in 13th Century small tribe of XXX(Oghuz?) Turks flying before Mongols from its original home in Central Asia, passed through Persia and entered Armenia under the leadership of Suleiman, XXX from Osman a prince of the family the name Ottoman was derived.” Muhammad II “the Conqueror” took the city by storm 1453, soldiers, legislators, statesmen. Suleiman the Magnificent, during his reign the power of the XXX was at its height, took Belgrad, Rhodes, Hungary, but received checks
Walked out in the morning, bought some coffee cups, then over the New Bridge, muddy, lots of dogs, people very foreign. S. Sophia again, does not look as well on outside. yellow and red stripes, 4 minarets columns of dark green marble from Temple of Diana at Ephesus, 8 red columns XXX from Temple of the Sun at XXX, prayer carpets of the prophet; saw, but did not have time to go up the Galata Tower. Sailed about four, cloudy, still the city looked very fine as we streamed out into the Sea of Marmara.
“El XXX” Smyrna
XXX is a beautiful little village did not go to Officer’s of the Kentucky & Miss Harding of Chicago interesting four hours in Smyrna Gaw-canals and bazaars, wish we had time to go to Ephesus before the walls of Vienna and XXX which mark the limits of Turkish conquest. Mahmud II “the reformer” removed most galling of the birdys upon his Christian subjects also killed the XXX, Abdul Hamid II 1876, present sultan. In 658 a band of Greeks from Megaro settled on the promontory over which are now the buildings and the gardens of the Seraglio called their new home Byzantium. The site was indicated by the oracle of Apollo at Delphi. They were to establish themselves opposite to the “land of the blind” the XXX had settled at Chalcedon across the way when they might have had the better position during the siege by Philip of Macedon, a crescent was seen in the sky was regarded by Byzantines as a sign of self-deliverance. Constantine made the city the capitol of Roman Empire, 306-327? Hippodrome, Burnt column, Serpent Column from Delphi. Theodosious I erected the Obelisk.
“S.S. El XXX” Pireas
Could not land at Piraeus or send off mail. I enjoyed the day, the Squires came on board, beautiful afternoon, the captain and Turkish delight.
“SS, El Kahuck”
Beautiful day did fancy work, and ate oranges, figs and Delight. The sea is fine.
“S. S. El Kahuck,” Alexandria
Got up at six to see the approach, a faint line of land along the pink horizon. Went in for tea and toast, talked to Mr. XXX, light house, the sun a great ball just rising above the horizon. Went to Church English, colors, palms, houses, etc. just a in pictures. Drove in p.m. past Pompey’s Pillar, XXX Canal, boats very interesting, also natives lovely yellow flowers on trees and bougainvillea to third story of houses, past Ramleh, very interesting drive.
Stayed in and wrote in a.m. afternoon went to Cooks found it closed until three, all the stores close at noon for about two hours. Letters from Mamma, Papa, G. XXX, wedding announcements from Abe Ashbridge. Bought camera.
Alexandria “S.S. Poseidon”
Went to Museum. Shops close from 12-3 o’clock. Went on board about 3:30 p.m. met the Cook party, the English man and his cousin.
Alexandria, S.S. Poseidon
We are still in the harbour as the sea is too rough to go out, started a little way, but could not et outside until nearly three p.m. Most of the passengers disappeared, we had only nine for dinner, Mrs. XXX and I the only ladies, it was interesting going over the bar(?) of the harbor. The waves broke very close on either side of the ship a very narrow channel.
S.S. Poseidon, Port Said
Walked about the town, very muddy, XXX of Maltese lace silk, ostrich feathers and Simon Arts cigarettes, coaling operation interesting, we rowed down the Suez Canal a little way, saw the “Kentucky” and Kruger’s ship from S. Africa, water in canal very muddy, they are very slow putting on cargo. I am afraid we shall not reach Jerusalem for Christmas.
S.S. Poseidon, Beirut
Arrived about six a.m. when I looked out my window I saw the sun most beautifully rising above the snow-covered mountains, the hills below rather green. Mt. Hermon 9050 ft. in height, the mountain ranges of Lebanon. St. George’s Bay. We shall have two day’s quarantine, and one to unload cargo, not reaching Jerusalem until Christmas Day probably. The fumigation is a form I was missed altogether. The hills are now a beautiful gray.
S.S. Poseidon, Beirut
Seventh-day very discouraging day in quarantine at Beirut. Watched the steerage go off to be fumigated, our fumigation was a farce, I was missed, washed my hair The Lebanon mountains very beautiful covered with snow, lots of gulls.
S.S. Poseidon, Beirut
First day. Went to deck early they are unloading. XXX photograph of Hermon Mt. XXX officer came over to say quarantine is off so I hope we shall reach Bethlehem Christmas evening after all. In afternoon XXX (Mt. Olives?) XXX, George and I drove about Beirut, saw the American college, etc. The pine trees and gathered some oranges. It seems wonderful to be here. Letters from Mamma, Papa, Aunt B., Aunt ?, XXX, beautiful Koran stand from G.
Jaffa, Jerusalem, Bethlehem
12.24 Christmas Eve
Very fortunate in being able to land about 8 o’clock. Went first to House of Simon the tanner fine view of the sea, from house top, tanners. Then drove through fine orange groves to tomb of Tabitha. Started for Jerusalem about one, interesting ride through plain of Sharon, I could scarcely believe I was really going up to Jerusalem, gorgeous sunset, after dinner drove to Bethlehem, lovely starlight
Went to English church in morning. I enjoyed the singing “Hark the Herald Angels” etc. and it was most interesting to be in Jerusalem Christmas day. better lunch we went to the Church of the Sepulchre. I cannot feel this is the XXX Calvary the Church built by Helena, mother of Constantine, then by the Via Dolorosa to Church of St. Anne & Pool of Bethesda. Clear in the morning but rainy in afternoon, walked out the St. Stephen’s Gate and looked over toward the Mt. of Olives. A Christmas I shall always remember.
Started about 9. I drove with two Eng. ladies, George rode, about 20 in party Arab sheikh most interesting drive had lunch at Good Samaritan XXX and reached Jericho Hotel about four. Then went to Elisha’s Spring, flocks of sheep and goats with their shepherds, men sowing the seed, ploughing with a crooked stick and 2 cows, XXX Cherith most beautiful colors in the hills of Moab.
Drove to Dead Sea 47 m. in length. 1292 ft. below Mediterranean, went wading, a very fine sheet of water but very salt.Found shells. Had picnic lunch on banks of Jordan, quite a nice stream but muddy, very warm in middle of day and not too cool at night. Went to see an orange grove at Jericho. I picked three fine oranges and blossoms.
Started about 1:30 the coloring in the Jordan valley is most wonderful. Stopped at Bethany on our way, saw the tomb of Lazarus, and site of house of Mary & Martha, also olive tree 2,000 years old. We say the Garden of Gethsemane, which was rather disappointing, it is laid out in little flower beds and we were not allowed in the enclosure. Wailing XXX (lace?) of the Jews most interesting.
Haram-esh-Sherif, site of Temple of Solomon, XXX Moriah, tile and mosaic work, and marble very beautiful, Mosque El-Aksa founded by Emperor Justinian. Solomon’s Stables. Mount Zion. The Room of the Last Supper is shown here, Armenian Monastery and House of Caiaphas. [ I’m missing a line at the top of the next page…] …much, this is the only way to really feel that you are in the Holy Land, to walk through the fields and over the hills where in all probability our Lord many times walked. The country is all so beautiful.
Last first day in the year. Went to church in the morning. Like the service minister, it is principally for the Jews. The choir being made up of Jewish boys. IN afternoon G. and I walked through the St. Stephen’s Gate over to the Mt. of Olives, a beautiful view of Jerusalem, on over the hills by a winding path to Bethany around and through Valley of Jehoshaphat into the city by Jaffa Gate.
Drove to Bethlehem this morning. Lovely clear but very cold, passed the Valley of XXX and Hill of Evil Counsel and the tree on which Judas is said to have hanged himself. Tomb of Rachel, Pools of Solomon, at Bethlehem, the Church of St. Mary. This p.m. drove to Solomon’s quarries then the Mt. of Olives, Tombs of the Kings and the hill which Gordon believes to have been Calvary, and it does seem likely, very XXX
January 1901. Cairo, Luxor, Aswan, and Abydos
January 1st, 1901
Watched the old year out from the balcony looking toward the Mt. of Olives, a little moon to starlight, but later a heavy thunderstorm. Got up at six, very stormy looked out at the Mt. of Olives, started at eight, reached Jaffa at 11:30. The sea is too rough to embark, spent the p.m. walking through the town and orange groves.
After buying a dozen purses went on board the [ship?], a beautiful roll all day
After a smooth voyage and beautiful moonlight we reached Port Said about;eight a.m. had lunch at Ismalia and reached Cairo at five p.m. A very large hotel, fine streets. Went to see Howling Dervishes. Beautiful moonlight again. The ride from P.S. interesting, fields beautifully green bakhshish.
Went with Canon Burgess to Mosques Ahmed XXX XXX with fine open court, Mosque of Sultan Hasan, built of stone taken from the pyramids beautiful minarets, near the citadel, Mosque El-Azhar the university from 10,000 to 13,000 students. Joseph’s Well. XXX Heliopolis or city of the Sun. Obelisk 66 ft. high, the sycamore tree, usually called the “Virgin’s Tree” Joseph married the daughter of Poliphar a priest of Heliopolis XXX XXX or near Goshen of the XXX, ostrich farm on the way home. Mena House Hotel, rode on camels to Sphinx, nearly buried in the sand.
Drove out with Mr. Burgess to the Pyramids of Gizeh, the great “451 ft. high, steps 3 ft. Kheops or Cheops second king of IV dynasty, his name written inside entrance. Sphinx 66 ft., Granite temple on the north side as in all pyramids, climbed up with the aid of three Arabs, white gowns & no shoes, sang, sold (gold?) coins, asked Pharaoh, Went if we had read XXX to Museum on way home, saw the wonderful old mummies of the Exodus.
First day went to English church in morning, wrote etc. in afternoon, had a stupid cold, our windows looked out on a very pretty garden.
Did some shopping in the morning and in afternoon called upon Miss Squire. Mrs. XXX very miserable. Saw a native woman do the chicken trick at the Continental, flamingos on the street, trained monkeys, snake charmers, lovely roses etc. La Franc.
Cairo “S.S. Ramses”
Went for my camera but found the shop closed, said good bye to Mrs. XXX (name above) and Mrs. Jacmeno. Started for the boat which left at 10 a.m. 75 passengers mounted donkeys, mine was a nice little gray one named Yankee Doodle, at noon when we reached Bedrachin rode through groves of date palms on roads high above the surrounding fields to the colossal statues of Ramses the Great, site of ancient Memphis, then rode on to Sakkarah (?) and step Pyramid through fields of wheat and clover, saw many beautiful reliefs, tomb of Mines (?) and XXX Mausoleum, with huge granite sarcophagi. 14 miles.
Did go off the steamer, passed many interesting XXX, most curious sails [picture]. The water is very muddy and not as wide as I expected, beautiful green fields on either side, date palms, pumps worked by hand or with water buffaloes.
“S.S. Ramses” 2nd day
Passed “Gebel-el-Tay,” with Coptic Convent on top. Beni-Hassan, very bad donkey boys, mud houses as usual. small children with no clothes on at all. Grotto of XXX Artimedos. Then to rock tombs high up on the side of the mountain where we saw the first example of Doric & Lotus columns and design of modern oil cloth, an hour’s ride altogether. 15 XXX to donkey boys. Sugar factory, went over.
Pass the mountain “Gabel-XXX-Faydah” and “Manfaloot”(?), and arrived at Assiout there the great subsidiary reservoir is being built. About six the palm trees like silhouettes against the sky of sunset, the sun drops down like a great ball.
Left the steamer at 8:15 a.m., very large donkeys, rode very fast through Assiout, quite a large town to the foot of the mountain. Tomb of the Sacred Wolf and Tomb of Meri-ka–ra XIII dynasty, very fine view of the Nile valley canal. Turkish cemetery then through the town of A. & bazaars a great scramble at wharf, selling Indian goods.
First day, very chilly. Had service conducted by a Scotch clergyman, read and wrote the rest of the day, “teach by example not by words.” flock of ibis on shore, golden glow with XXX in beautiful sunset foreground.
Started on donkeys at 8:15 to the Temple of Danderah, by far the most interesting I have seen. 24 XXX headed columns support the portico here was the classical Tentyra, probably not older than beginning of our era. People of T. disliked crocodiles, portraits of Cleopatra and Caesarion, her son, Zodiac on ceiling of portico. XXX Keneh on east bank famous for dates and trade with Arabian Peninsula. Arrived at Luxor about 5 p.m. Had a nice little donkey boy, donkey and ride through the green fields, a new way of XXX bakhshish. Temple of Karnak, built by Ramses I, Seti I, Ramses II, then the third XXX obelisk of Thothmes I, granite XXX up by Hatshepset covered with gold in honor of “father Amen,” then the sanctuary and the oldest part of the Temple
“S.S. Ramses”, Luxor
An avenue of rather broken sphinxes leads to the Temple of XXX. Bisharius (?) to splendid pylon built by Ptolemy IX (or IV?). Great Temple of Karnak fronted the Nile was approached by ram-headed sphinxes by Ramses II. Temple of Ramses III (or IV?) on the south side, court with very fine lotus column, then Hall of Columns 60 ft. high, 35 ft. in circum. 12 col., 122 smaller others.
“S.S. Ramses”, Luxor
Wrote in the morning and bought photographs in afternoon, went with Miss [blank space] to Temple at Luxor. Very interesting statues of Ramses II and Mrs. Ramses, of red granite, also very perfect bas-reliefs, the obelisk sister of the Paris obelisk, very perfect. The rest of the party went to see the Tombs of the Kings, housecleaning on deck by the sailors.
“S.S. Ramses”, Luxor
The Misses B., George & I rode out to Karnak, saw Shashang with the prisoners Jewish and the poem of Pen-ta-urt, celebrating the victory of Ramses II over the Cheta, botanical garden, sacred Lake, lotus and papyrus (papyrus?) columns. The party went to see Temple of Ramses III. The Colossi, the Ramesseum. Donkey race.
Temple of XXX about ten o’clock, walked through the village about 2,000 years old, fine palm capitals, XXX of Roman emperors, Edfu at 4 p.m. Temple of Edfu very interesting, well preserved. Ptolemy XXX I 237 B.C. very fine capitals. Fine view of hill valley and sunset from pylon, XXX bought basket work, etc.
Kom Ombo at 10 a.m. Temple of XXX (the crocodile god), the temple is double, cartouche of Tiberius other part dedicated to Heru-ur. Very queer people with braided hair, pretty white and blue XXX (bean?) flowers along the banks. Reached Aswan at 4 p.m., went in small XXX around the Elephantine island. Water worn rocks, bazaars, beads.
“S.S. Ramses”, Aswan
First day went over in small boat with the Misses Fowler to new English Church, the service I like, heard of the Queen’s illness. Wrote in p.m. George went down the cataract.
“S.S. Ramses”, Aswan
Most of the passengers left for the boat on the upper Nile. We went by train to the Island of Philae, Temple of Isis, then in small boats to see the cataract & barge. Pharaoh’s Bed very beautiful and well-preserved, sandstorm, XXX ride in sailing XXX. Copy of Rosetta stone without Greek.
Wrote letter and did fancy work all day evening about five, arrived at Luxor, G. & I had a nice ride out to Karnak, new moon Orion very fine with obelisks and pylon in foreground.
“S.S. Ramses,” Luxor
Started at 7 a.m. for the other side of the river, where sugar and XXX were waiting for us, ride through green wheat fields past. Colossi of Amenophis III that to the north the C. of Memnon or vocal Memnon, when the sun rose and Ramesseum colossal statue of Rameses II. Tombs of the Kings, Rameses II very bright colors broken sarcophagus; Rameses III called Bruce’s Tomb or “Tomb of the Harper,” this I think the most interesting tomb, one room had fruits, one water jars, one flowers, one weapons, sowing and reaping. Tomb of Seti I, BC 1366 called “Belzoni’s Tomb”. Alabaster sarcophagus in XXX Museum, London. Book of being in the under-world, story of the sun in the hours of the night. Left Luxor at 11 a.m., most beautiful sunset, the palms and dahabeahs (?) making silhouettes against the golden sky.
“S.S. Ramses”, Abydos
Bellianah about 9 a.m. donkey boys very bad, but I had a good ride of 17 miles, through wheat, bean and clover fields. Coptic Monastery, Temple of Rameses II, beautiful turquoise blue, best color I have seen, tablet of Abydos taken from here, temple of Seti I. Tablet of Obydos giving names of 76 kings of Egypt beginning with Menes and ending with Seti I. It rains in Egypt.
“S.S. Ramses” Rainy.
Sewed all morning, went off the steamer at Assiout and walked to the village through the slough of XXX. I never saw such sticky mud. Esau says it has not rained so hard for 30 years.
Tel-el-Amarna painted fresco pavement from Palace of Khu-en-XXX 1400 B.C. George and the Misses Burri went off the Arabs carried them from the small boats.
“S.S. Ramses” Cairo
Nice little service, the day seemed short. We arrived in Cairo about four, and found rooms waiting for us at The Continental. Said good-bye to Mr. & Mrs. Hoppen, Mr. Laidlaw, & Mr. & Mrs. Shelton. Found Mr. & Mrs. Coles at the C.
Went shopping with Amy and Edith Burrage, they were very nice and kind, at last found a buckle for Pattie. George went with the girls to see the sunset from [blank space] Edith B. and I called on each other. I repacked my trunk.
George climbed the second pyramid. I went with the B’s to the Gizeh Museum, the scarabs, amulets and papyrus of Queen XXX-ka-Ra especially interesting, copied the sign of life.In the p.m. we four drove out to see the pyramids and Sphinx by moonlight, very fine, especially the Sphinx.
G. and I went to the Bazaar, and bought some rugs from Mr. Cohen, he game me a piece of embroidery and other of roses. The brass work is most fascinating, table covers, etc. In p.m. had a little tea and did some more shopping, the B’s presented me with a book, a donkey, and a sign of life. Very pleasant to have them to talk to in the evenings.
The girls gave me some flowers and the proprietor, we reached Alexandria at 12:45 and “Humbert” at three, met Mr. & Mrs. Richardson on the train. The boat is Italian and the stewards etc. speak only Italian. The rooms are large and comfortable, but the table is very bad.
February 1901. Sicily, Naples, Gibraltar, Madrid, and home.
Smooth sea, quite warm, saw the snow mountains on Crete, all afternoon, and in the evening the light house the highest in the world. Beautiful moonlight.
More rough and cold, thought I would do a great deal but was rather afraid to stir about much.
Spent the day in the harbor at Meissena. George, Mr. M. XXX, Dr. Register and I took a drive about the town, Campo Santo and two churches, beautiful view from former rather like Bellagio, the hills green, olive trees clouds hanging over hills, snow on the mountains in Italy. Stone XXXMt. Stromboli flaming(?) in evening.
Landed about 10 a.m. in pouring rain. We rowed across the harbor to customs house, they wished to charge for brass but decided not to, found a lot of letters waiting, our trunk and hat box all right but poor rooms. Mine looked out on terrace of narcissus, fuss with XXX Vesuvius not very active
Geo. goes up Vesuvius with Dr. Register, I look over my trunk and write to Mamma. In p.m. took a carriage and went shopping, very rainy. The streets look quite clean since seeing Jerusalem and Constantinople. G. has given up going on the Werra as it only carries second class.
Drove to Pompeii, a two hour drive, very interesting through little villages, saw lots of XXX. We say the House of the XXX, the finest in Pompeii, House of Glancus and House of XXX, also walked out to the Colliseum, got back to the hotel just before the rain.
Very rainy. About twelve went to the Museum, Homer, and Venus of Capua, also marble candlesticks I like. Had lunch at the Arcade, rather poor, I thought. Went shopping driving home alone about five, this is the second time and I have not had the least unpleasant experience. And XXX XXX collar (?) Graphic.
Naples, “S.S. Ortona”
Rainy as usual. Went on board at nine accompanied by musicians, a flower boat also, the Ortona very nice, clean and large. It is a comfort to be on an English boat, the flowers are just coming out. I am sorry to leave Italy.
Smooth, but very cold, saw the coast of the Riviera and Marseilles about six p.m. as it was dark and we did not go up to the deck. We could not leave the steamer, all English on the boat, tea in the morning and afternoon.
First day, lovely, clear, calm day. Only three more first days until we are at home I hope. Read all afternoon, saw the Balearic Isles.
Still very calm though cloudy, many ships in sight as we approach Gibraltar, snow on the mountains in Spain in sight all day. Very bad landing, dark and rainy. Lady Lawrence came with us and as there were not enough rooms, she Pillars of Hercules and I had the drawing room (?).
Gibraltar. rainy in a.m.
Went to Cooks and XXX last of my letter of credit, bought some lace, in p.m. we three walked to Galleries Lower, fine view of the Bay, then to the XXX Garden, lovely spring flowers, XXX(jenesta?) growing wild everywhere.
Gibraltar, Seville on the XXX. Clear
Rose at 4 a.m. Lady Lawrence, G. and I went across to Algeciras, where we took the train. Had sent the luggage on before. Early morning light very beautiful. The rock of Gibraltar looked very fine first by moonlight, then the sunrise, a most interesting country, jenesta(?), white lilies, etc. everywhere, cherries, trees in full bloom. The little pink petals blew at the windows. High ravines, mountain torrents, green fields, forests of olive and orange trees, gendarmes at each station, girls flowers in their hair and bright scarfs, selling eggs and oranges. Lunch at Boladilla, change cars at Ronda, Seville at 5 p.m. Seville birthplace of Velazquez (1599-1660) & Murillo (1617-82), March 31, 1493 Columbus was received here on return from his first voyage.
Casa de Pilatos, fine XXX tile, Don F. de Ribera, old city walls built by Moors, Cathedral Gothic, very fine, first silver brought from America by Tomb of Ferdinand, largest organ in world, “Guardian Angel” Murillo, Mater XXX “St. Anthony of Padua’s Vision of the Holy Child” M. XXX XXX, Museo Provincial, Murillo “S.F. Felix holding the Holy Child in his Arms,” St. Thomas distributing alms, 14 Conception XXX faces.
Reached M. about 11 a.m., very cold. Snow on mountains, Sierra de Guadarrana(?). No sign of the riots, walked to Real Academia de Bellas Artes, Murillo “Dream of the Roman Knight” (Santa Marial Maggiore); Museo del Prado Murillo “Conception,” [“878” is scribbled in-between lines], “Surrender of XXX” Velazquez, Ethnographical Museum, walked along the Prado. At dinner looked out on the Puerta del Sol. All houses built in Moorish custom, inner courts, Alcazar, beautiful palace of Moorish kings, fine azulejos and carved marble. Court of the Maidens white marble, and very pretty, Salon de Embajadores fine.
[this is at the top of the next page, so I don’t know if it goes with 2.15 or 2.16 entry]
a granite staircase leads to it. marble and gold very fine, also beautiful white marble tombs three or four rooms for princes, etc. Sacrista and Chapter Rooms, fine and great number of tapestried rooms in palace, rooms of Philip II, severely plain opening on the high-altar where he died. We had a French guide, and the luncheon at the Fonda de Miranda fairly good, the little children have such pretty eyes.
Escorial, started early in morning, 9 a.m. to Escorial, 1 3/4 hrs. ride, very cold. Escorial built by Philip II vowed during battle of St. Quentin(?) fought on day of St. Lawrence, Aug. 10, 1557 as a church dedicated to him was destroyed by Spanish artillery, huge gray stone buildings supposed to be in shape of grid-iron, late-Renaissance, looks rather like the Tower of London, Biblioteca de Impresos, marble jasper XXX, beautiful old books and illuminations, church and place in choir where Philip II sat. Most beautiful marble and onyx XXX high-altar, kneeling figures of Chas V and family, also Philip II and family. Panteon de los Reyes
On account of the riots no cabs to be had so we walked to church, going home we saw some of the Carnival confetti, etc. The streets were a great sight in p.m., fancy dress, confetti, and paper ribbons, floats, etc. Such a crowd. George went out, but I saw quite enough from my window.
Could not see the collection of armor and royal stables on account of the Carnival. The city is in a state of siege on account of the riots. In p.m. went again to Museo Prado, I like Velazquez better. Saw great crowds of gay people, the Carnival is on in full swing. Left for Granada 8:20 p.m.
Arrived about seven a.m., walked through the old town the original capitol of the Moors in Spain. To the Cathedral the open court of orange trees very pretty, ascended the tower, XXX XXX XXX, formerly a mosque, many beautiful columns and pillars of different marbles, also mosaic. Walked over bridge and out into the country, the houses in the town are very clean. It almost seems like a German or Dutch village. Fine old tower (marble, XXX jasper, breccia, XXX styles) Cordova Cathedral second in size to the XXX of Mecca. Beautiful view of the Sierra Nevada from Alcazaba XXX Hassan highest summit XXX covered 11.420 ft. Left C. 12:15 p.m., reached Granada about 8:30 p.m.
This place must be lovely in the Spring. Fine elm trees and a great deal of ivy in the park. We can only see the walls and one tower of the Alhambra from hotel, I was not disappointed in the Court of XXX, though I did expect more white marble. View from Alcazaba, Alameda Park, Puerta Judiciaria with hand & key, Alhambra very plain on outside, two towers, Torre de los Picoas, Torre de la Cantina, with wall and ivy picturesque. Court of the Lions, Hall of the Ambassadors, Room of the Two Sisters, XXX, Palace of Chas V. unfinished, Mohammed V 1354 built finest parts of Alhambra. Generalife, Cipres de la Sultana, 600 years old.
Alhambra morning & afternoon. R. of T.S. and Myrtle Court, the prettiest a great deal of stucco, inlaid wood. Darro and Genil streams about Granada. Boabdil driven out by F. and Isabella, Moorish Chapel with big lions, violets in the garden. Cave dwelling among cactus, where live the Gipsies (drove). The Cathedral begun in Gothic, finished in Renaissance style, In the Capilla Real are the Royal Monuments, Ferdinand and Isabella, Cartuja(?)—Carthusian Convent. S.F. Bruno. Sacristy beautiful, chocolate and white marble and cedar wood cabinets inlaid with ivory, mother-of-pearl and silver.
Granada, Bobadilla, Gibraltar
Started at 10 a.m. at the rate of 3 1/2 miles in an hour and a quarter, some of the scenery very pretty, spring flowers and cherry blossoms, beautiful sunset olive trees in foreground. Purple mountains, dinner at Bobadilla, the train from there to Algeriras(?) under English management, very much better. Reached Gib. about starlight.
Rainy, wrote, did a little packing, had lunch, then bought two pieces of Maltese lace, continued packing in the p.m. We were fortunate in finding our trunk safe in Gib. as two Canadians lost theirs in the same hotel.
Gibraltar, S.S. Hohenzollern
Still it rains, George called at my door about nine to say the vessel was in, so I rushed my things together to find it had been a false alarm. I wrote and we waited until two p.m. then went down to the wharf and over in a row boat to the steamer. G. gave me some lovely violets, oranges and baskets, lots of dark gulls about the steamer, very comfortable.
Smooth, I sewed nearly all day, and read “A Minister of France” Weyman. Miss Fowler’s account of the Hohenzollern was a false alarm. It is clean. There are no roaches, and the table is good. Saw a whale spout and the steamer [not finished]
Rough. I have not see such weather since I came over on the “New York.” But I do not think the ship rolls more than most. Miss Pollard sits opposite us at table, had lunch on deck, and felt very miserable all day.
Smooth. Reached the Azores about eleven a.m. and came very near to San Mi [blank space] cliffs covered with XXX and trees, all the houses and churches are white, waterfalls, one fine rock near a town before you come to P. the XXX(cloud?) effects very pretty.
Rough and stormy. We are not having much good of the moon. I shall be so glad to be on dry land once more, breakfast on deck. Very warm, slept on deck with no coat on until after 10 p.m.
Rough and stormy. A bad night. I don’t think there is any chance of getting in third day. Read “Ben Hur.”
Clear and smoother. I hope it will continue. Saw ship in the p.m. Very cold wind.
327 miles. Rainy and stormy all day. A regular cyclone. XXX(Trunks?) want to see it rougher.
271 miles. Clear and much more smooth. Saw a ship. Rolled all last night.
Stormy again. Snow, hail, thunder, lightning, rain and fog in p.m. Cleared away by evening. Saw a vessel passing very near us in eve.
Very cold, ice on the windows, saw land about twelve.
[On last page of journal:]
Letters and flowers from:
Aunt Lizzie L.
Quarantine letters Mother & Pattie
END OF JOURNAL #2